I dabble in DIY

Don M

Don M

Well-known member
I'd check out Rodbuilding.org a lot of knowledgeable people there. Builders from all over the world.
 
A-5

A-5

Moderator
Randy Z said:
Im assuming with that length the rod is tip top heavy? You can always add some weight inside the handle. Some lead fly tying wrap or equivalent. Once rods get that long either you deal with it or make the rod a 1/2 pound heavier at the but and have to deal with a super heavy rod. Its tough.
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Z. Yea I bought lead tape. Whatever I did I needed more. It’s just so out of proportion it’s hard
 
Solitario Lupo

Solitario Lupo

Moderator
Gremcat said:
Yeah I can’t balance anything long but can’t cast centerpin on anything short for some reason. I drop the tip and longer rods help buy me some margin when I do it.

I really like the look of a spey 12’ 5-6wt sage one for a float rod but A. Can’t find a blank or reasonable rod to strip and B. Still not a heavy hook setter which seems to be an issue on really light rods with big fish.

Even oversized trout have been schooling me by inhaling my bait but then after a few minutes spitting it right out even using #2 light wire micro barbs. I’ve always let fish set their own hooks though so fishing with a float rod and bead or anything with fly isn’t easy. I’m used to leaving line on the water so spooky fish can run a bit before they feel the tension.
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I’m having same problems with my fly rod very sensitive and hard to get a good hook set. The only thing is to pull the line to get a good hookset. The other thing I did was went to a slower action tip. It’s much thicker at the end.
 
G

Gremcat

Well-known member
hmm I would think a fast action tip would be stiffer? I thought slow action flexed down to the middle. Maybe my brain isn’t working because I know there’s action and strength. The actual terms are escaping me
 
Don

Don

Well-known member
Grem that is the same for me. I seem to be getting different messages about which is best.
 
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